DIY Wheel Hub Assembly Replacement: Complete Guide

With the car still on the ground, pop off the dust cap on the axle nut if equipped. Use a breaker bar and the appropriate large socket to break the axle nut loose. Do not remove it yet, just crack it free. Then loosen all five lug nuts about half a turn each.

Jack the car up at the manufacturer's lift point and place a jack stand under the frame or pinch weld. Lower the car onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set the wheel under the car as a safety backup in case the jack stand fails.

Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper. Remove them and slide the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose. Use a bungee cord or wire to hang the caliper from a suspension component. Then remove the two larger caliper bracket bolts (often 17mm or 19mm) and remove the bracket. If you need a refresher on brake removal, our brake pad replacement guide walks through caliper removal in detail.

The rotor usually has a small Phillips screw or two Torx screws holding it on. Remove them, then pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it is rust-stuck, give the hub face (not the friction surface) a few firm taps with a rubber mallet. If it still will not budge, our brake rotor replacement guide covers stuck-rotor techniques.

Fully remove the axle nut you cracked loose in step 1. Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the back of the hub. There is usually one small bolt holding it. Remove the bolt and gently pry the sensor out. Set it aside. Disconnect the ABS sensor wiring harness clip from any nearby brackets so it can move freely.

The CV axle splines pass through the hub. Push the axle inward (toward the center of the car) so it clears the hub. A few light taps with a rubber mallet on the end of the axle stud usually does it. If it is corroded in place, spray penetrating oil and let it sit for 10 minutes. Do not hammer hard with a steel hammer or you can damage the threads. For more on CV axles, see our CV axle replacement guide.

Look behind the steering knuckle. You will see three or four bolts holding the hub flange to the knuckle. These are usually 14mm to 18mm. Spray them with penetrating oil first. Use a breaker bar to break them loose. Once all bolts are out, the hub should pull off the knuckle. Stubborn hubs may need a few firm taps with a dead-blow hammer on the back of the hub flange.

This step matters. Use a wire brush to clean rust and old anti-seize off the steering knuckle mating surface. The new hub must seat flat. Any debris causes uneven loading and vibration. Wipe the surface with brake cleaner. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the mating surface (not the bolts, just the surface) to prevent corrosion lock for the next replacement.

Slide the new hub onto the knuckle, lining up the bolt holes. Start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Then snug them down evenly in a star pattern. Torque to factory spec, typically 70 to 110 ft-lbs (check your service manual). Reinstall the ABS sensor and reconnect the harness.

Slide the CV axle splines back through the hub. Install the new axle nut by hand. Reinstall the brake rotor, then the caliper bracket (torque 70 to 100 ft-lbs typical), then the caliper itself (slide bolts 25 to 35 ft-lbs typical). Put the wheel back on and start the lug nuts by hand.

Lower the car so the wheel touches the ground but is not bearing full weight. Torque the axle nut to factory spec (typically 150 to 250 ft-lbs, check your manual). Then lower fully. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to factory spec (usually 80 to 110 ft-lbs for passenger cars). Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed. The humming should be gone.